Journey to Varnavat Mountain

One has been reading about the subtle realms, tucked in the mystic Himalaya, in North eastern reaches of India for many years. Right from the Arunanchal Pradesh in India up towards Tibet, an area of about 60 kms length is the place where sacred realms of Gyanganj and Sidh ashram are still located run by yogis of the ancient times. These are the pure creations of the yogis and Brahma has nothing to do with it. There is no Sun, no Moon, no Earth, its self effulgent and do not need anything of the world. Even famous Nagarjuna math is still existing there. Those yogis with 100's of years of ages and mesmerizing powers living in the world of their own creation, protecting our ancient vidyas and showering there great compassion on all the creation, animate or inanimate both.

Many have explained their journeys to those lands. One was always fascinated by there accounts and land of these sacred yogis, with ancient sages and rishis. Those places where the real knowledge of the yoga is preserved and taught. A subtle space in the gross world where there were teaching centres for 16 different kinds of vigyan which run our whole cosmos. Our Earth is run by one of those which is called Science of Sun (Surya Vigyan).

Paramhamsa Vishudhanand, also known as Gandhababa (mentioned in the Autobiography of a Yogi) was trained in that realm for 16 years before he came back to the world and started teaching in Varanasi and Bandul, his village. His disciple Gopinath Kaviraj ji wrote exhaustively on the teachings and methods of those realms as instructed by his Guru and also was in contact with sidhas of that realm from time to time. Through his writings one could see many glimpses of this realm. Another person who wrote about it was Pt.Arun Kumar Sharma. He also was a great yogi himself and his accounts are very knowledgeable and interesting. One always wished to meet him but unfortunately could not as he left this earthly realm. By divine design one came in contact with revered SN Khandelwal ji, who directed one to meet Shankar Swami, another elevated soul who has been to Gyan Ganj and had darshan of Mahatapa Baba there. One thanked the Mother for her blessings and lost no opportunity to contact Lama ji. One came to know of many fascinating stories of that realm from him and was invited to his ashram, on Varnavat mountain in Uttarkashi to learn things of those subtle realms. One felt that it is nothing but grace of the divine, reading all the writings of Gopinath ji, Khandelwal ji, Pt. Arun Kumar Sharma ji one got blessed to move further in this path of the sidhas.

   Uttarkashi is a very sacred place in the Himalayas and Ganges once again turns North wards and then regain her course flowing downwards. There are many special places in there, as described in the Skand Puran. One of such places is the Varnavat mountain. 

One got up early morning at 4 am, took bath and did one's daily pooja so as to be ready for the trip from Chandigarh. Reached the embarking point at 6.10 to board a comfortable 6.50 am bus for Dehradoon. The bus was not completely booked and one could get a current ticket to board. It took around 5 hours to reach Dehradoon bus stand from where one took another bus to Rishikesh, which is about 45 kms away. By the time one reached Rishikesh bus stand, it was 1.45 pm and weather was quite warm and one wished for a bath and quick dip in to the Ganges. So one hired an auto for going up to Laxman jhoola. It was a holiday and lot of pilgrims were there. Unfortunately on the way police stopped everyone and no body was allowed to cross the check post in vehicles. Thus one has no choice but to walk all the way to Laxman jhoola with back pack. One was feeling hungry, thirsty and perspiring so instead crossed the over the Ganges to the other side to have a quick lunch at famous Chotiwala. The whole place was fully jam packed. One had to wait for a seat to have a quick lunch. After that one started walking all the way to Laxman jhoola from this side passing various ashrams. Along the way people were having cane juice way side vendors and passed many sadhus sitting under trees and shops selling yoga clothing, mats etc. Some ayurvedic centers providing Shirodhara etc have sprung up. All seem to be doing good business. One remembered the Rishikesh of 30 years back, very quite, serene and very few people. One could get simple rooms at Rs.30-50 for one night which now cost Rs. 5-700/- per night. 

One booked a room at usual guest house, took a quick bath and went to rest. In the evening around 7 pm quick dinner and then back to the room. Early to bed, so as to be fresh in the morning for the next journey. Got up at 3.30 am, took bath and left the guest house at 4 am. Since early morning there are no conveyances available but only taxis, so hired a taxi to the bus stand which costs Rs.400 almost double the autorickshaw fare of Rs.200. Reached the bus stand around 4.25 to find that first bus has left and next bus would leave at 5.30. Bought the ticket and boarded the bus. At exactly 5.30 am driver came and started the bus. One just tried to relax in the seat. Morning time was quite comfortable, The bus started going in to the mountains snake like road. One had to keep one self balanced to keep in the seat. The roads were not in good condition as lot of rock cutting etc. was going on throughout to widen the roads. Passing through Narender Nagar, Chamba etc one reached Uttarkashi. One had tried to contact Shankar Swami ji many times but his cell phone always seamed to be switched off. Therefore for the last two days one had sent many messages to him about ones program of upcoming visit but got no reply.

The moment one got down at the Uttarkashi bus stand, one tried to call his number again but still switched off. Not sure what to do in such a situation, one again sent a message to him if by chance Swamiji opened his cell phone. Just as one was inquiring from the locals about going to Shikhar, top of the mountain, the cell phone buzzed and a message flashed, 'Where are you?' One got elated and immediately replied that one has reached Uttarkashi Bus stand. There are two ways to reach his ashram on the top of the Varnavat mountain. One is a longer path which can be taken by any one but one is a shorter path which leads through para military establishment for which one has to have transit pass. One has been requesting Swami ji for last many days to inform the security at the entrance to allow passage. 

Shankar Swami ji

All of a sudden the phone rang up and one could hear the familiar voice of the Swami ji on the other side who informed that one may go up as information about security passage has been requested. Feeling relieved, one took a taxi to go up 10-12 kms to the security check point where identification papers were taken and then one was allowed to move inside. Taxi dropped one at the top of the mountain where one again called up Swami ji. He informed to wait there only as he had sent some person to guide back to his ashram. The whole area was flat and green with jungle on three sides. Clouds started gathering and roaring. Weather forecast showed rain in the afternoon. One had no umbrella or  rain coat to tackle that situation but firm resolve. After 10-15 minutes one could see some movement in the tree line in front and saw a man emerging out with a bag in his hand. One felt happy to meet him. He had two rain coats in his bag given by Swami ji. The moment we started, at that very moment it started drizzling. Whole of the sky was covered with black clouds. Below one could see the city of Uttarkashi. From above one could clearly see the Ganges, coming down from the mountains, reversing her course to again to face north as if bowing to the Himalaya and the divines dwelling there. We took out the rain coats and wore them over the back pack to save clothes lying in from getting wet. Slowly we started moving up the mountain track. It started passing through the jungle and whole of the path was  red carpeted with Rhododendron flowers. They are very special flower and people make a very refreshing drink out of it. In local language it is called 'Booransh'. One had drank it many times in Badrinath, Mana village. All around one could see the trees of it. One kept on moving through it and slowly slowly the tree line started to thin out. Straight ahead steep path was seen going towards the top of the mountain. As one moved up more and more, beautiful scenery enfolded all around. Bandapuch glacier, Neelkanth mountain top etc. were seen far off.  Walking up one could see the wall of the ashram, then moving up one could see the building and a lone flag flying. The path is not much trying though as one reached the top.

One approached the Ashram through the gate and was met by a gentleman standing at the door of the room. He seemed to be living there. On introduction, one came to know that he is a scientist and has got  doctorate in Particle Physics from Calcutta and has done research in some sensitive technology field alone. His name was Subya Sachi. A nice person who has come there with his ailing old mother. One met her too. At that moment Swami ji appeared from inside and one reverently touched his feet. He blessed.

Top View of Swamiji's Ashram on Varnavat

He opened one room and asked to keep one's luggage inside. There were three beds with many quilts lying there. So one left the luggage and came out to see the enchanting scenery around. Then one went inside along with the Swamiji and the Subya Sachi to enjoy the great Booransh Drink. Swami ji had prepared liters of it for sending to someone in Calcutta. Drank two full glasses and sat with Swami ji. Talked about his latest book and his experiences of Gyan ganj. Requested him to teach some special things. He agreed and asked to rest till 5 pm. So all of us went to our rooms to rest till 5pm.

Sunrise over Bandar Poonch Glacier

Got up at 4.30 pm and came out of the room. Swamiji had not come out of his room yet. Around 5 pm Swamiji came out and asked to bring a few red flowers from the trees around. So along with Subya Sachi, went to a nearby tree and climbed while Subya waited below. Got a 7-8 flowers and gave it to him and them jumped down from the tree. Flowers were given to Swami ji who was waiting for us in the Shiva temple in the ashram. A water pot was filled to do abhishek of the Shivalingam. Was asked to take a special cloth to wrap around as he was going to perform a havan on our body with fire, I think its a form of Virja havan. One did not understand the full meaning of it, till the first Ahuti of it was thrown over. Chanting the Shivas mantra he threw a specially prepared powder with his right hand in my direction over a lighted deepak held in his left hand in front of him. The moment the ahuti material flew over the lighted deepak, it caught fire, a large flame shot towards ones lap covered by the cloth given. Since the cloth was covering up to shoulders, the fire jumped along the cloth on to the face and may be charred a few left side eyebrows. One was surprised by the sudden coming up of the fire. One immediately became alert, straightening ones back and neck, kept one's face a little backwards. When the next ahuti was delivered one's face was safely out of its range. But sometime it gave a searing heat on the arms or on the knees where ever it hit. One endured all the ahutis thrown at oneself with mantras. After that one was made to the abhishek of the Shiva.

After completion of the whole ritual, it was informed that Mahamritunjaya mantra has been established inside one's body now. This will guard oneself from all outside negativity. One really felt blessed to have such a ritual performed. One has never seen it though, a similar thing is done in case of people who renounce the world, which is called as Virja havan. In that case the whole procedure takes three days.

By 6.30, one was free from the whole procedure. One went back to the room and enjoyed the feeling of the special ritual. Since whole of the clothes inside were filled with the dust of the ahutis thrown at one self, one had to clean. After getting cleaned, one went to Swami ji in the kitchen. Subya Sachi was there preparing daal and vegetables for dinner. One took up the duty of making chapatis. Swami ji showed a small place to make chapatis where many forest wood pieces were lying. One kneaded the dough and lighted up the fire putting a tava over the fire. Shortly one was ready with chapatis for all the 4-5 people there. All of us sat together and started enjoying prasad. Swami ji also had a bottle of milk from the village. One took some hot milk in a bowl and put some jaggery in to it and drank it. It was very tasty especially in that setting of the mountain top. After dinner Swami ji asked to come to his room as he was going to teach some special kriyas for building energy in the subtle body. He did once and told to follow. After checking, finding it correct asked to repeat daily wherever one is. According to him this will strengthen the subtle body for higher spiritual practices later. After practice one returned to the room and sat in meditation till mid night. At midnight one had some strange interesting experience in the room. Then one went to bed.

At around 4 am one got up and went outside. Whole sky was starlit. One breathed in lot of fresh air and came back in the room to sit for morning dhyan. Till 6 am one sat and then went for bath. In half an hour one was ready. When swami ji came outside, he called and said he will teach another thing for improving the heart condition. According to him that kriya clears all the blockages and strengthens the heart. It was a combination of Jal neti and a suksham vyayaam which one already knew though the sequence of doing was different. One was asked to do it daily as this clears all blockages and one would never face any heart condition in life.

After that Swamiji planned to take one to the Cave of Mahatapa Baba, presently the controller of Gyan Ganj. According to him the local Village nearby is called Gyan ja which is similar to Gyan Ganj. Both Ganj and Ja means place where people live. There was another village nearby named Sankrali. Sankrali is said to be place where the famous Shangrila Valley used to be earlier. Now both are in Tibet. Swami ji showed the slokas mentioned in the Skand Puran regarding its location, which very well matched. So one felt more motivated to visit the cave of Mahatapa baba. We were asked to prepare lunch quickly so that on return we can have it. Rice, Daal etc were prepared and kept in the kitchen. Around 9 all of us left for the Cave. It was down below in the valley a few kilometers after passing the Gyanja village.

Gyanja Village

One slowly descended the the mountain path. On the way one was shown a sacred water hole from where they collected drinking water. Nearby was the old ashram of Swamiji's guru which was not in good shape except the room where Swamiji used to stay. The roof and walls of the other room had fallen. Whole building needed repair.

We continued our descent. In between, Swamiji would stop and inquire after the local people. All knew him well and respected him. He asked someone to send his son along with the key of the cave as we proceeded further downwards. At last we reached the gate of the cave which had a door installed on it and lock also put there. The local village person brought out the key and opened the door to this ancient cave for us. As one entered, one bowed down to great Mahatapa Baba who is the in-charge of Gyanganj these days and about to move to another galaxy of super humans where he would be the reigning deity.   One thanked one's fortune to be standing on such a hallowed land where great yogis must have done innumerable austerities. The path leading inside was up and down and snake like. Sometime one has to sit and sometime one has to crawl and some time one is able to stand even inside. But one needs to have a flash light all the time as there is no source of light there. It will be quite difficult for a fat person to enter it. One saw a naked statue of Lord Krishna on a ledge on the right side inside. One bowed down to the lord and did His abhishek with water taken in bottles for this purpose.

One kept on going forward and arrived at another Shivlingam installed inside on the right hand side again. So one ascended to the level of the shivling and sat there. Lighting a dhoop and deep, one performed abhishek of the Shiva along with others while Swami ji chanted the slokas for it. After that all sat for some time there and meditated, praying to Lord Shiva, Lord Krishna and all the yogis of this mystic path to bless and evolve further and further on this path. One took this opportunity to prostrate and request for their grace to descend in abundance. After that whole of the party came out of the cave, locked the door and start the ascent back towards Swamijis ashram on top of the Varnavat mountain. In an hours time, one reached the top of the mountain and requested Swami ji for his great invigorating Booransh drink. All drank 2-2 glasses of this elixir like drink in this seclusion. When the lunch was being readied, a Russian traveler along with his local guide arrived. They both were also invited and served lunch. After finishing lunch, washing dishes, all retired to their respective resting places to rest after days tiring trek. In the evening, around five all got up and sat with Swamiji asking questions and general spiritual discussions ensued. It carried out till late evening, after which one started making chapatis for all for dinner. After dinner of daal, roti and rice one taking leave of Swami ji went back to resting quarters. One started packing up the bags as Swamiji got some message to urgently go for some work to Hardwar with his Bengali guests in taxi next day early morning.

with Swami ji near his Guru's Ashram

One got up early in the morning at 4 am, meditated and went for daily bath etc. The water did not feel very cold up there as one is used to cold bath through out the year. There is provision of heating rod also for people used to warm bathing water. After that one looked around the mountain sides and stars lit up above for the last time. One sat for ones daily pooja and jap. Swami ji had asked for some guys to bring Khacchars for carrying the luggage down to the military area from where taxis were to come to take them to Hardwar and us to local bus stand for onward bus journey to Rishikesh. After half an hour delay because of late arrival of porters, their luggage was packed on to the Khacchars, while one carried ones luggage on one's back itself. Quickly one walked downhill and in about 15 minutes reached the rendezvous.  The taxi was waiting there for boarding. During crawling through the cave, one's hiking shoe sole got spoiled a little bit and needed repair. Since cobblers were available in the city of Uttarkashi alone so one had to walk slower than one's normal pace. All boarded their respective vehicles and set on journey down the Varnavat. On the way one saw the board of Sankrali village too which is said to be the originating word for Shangrila. On reaching down in the city one was shown the cobbler point by the taxi driver right in front of the local bus and taxi stand. Getting the shoe repaired one boarded the waiting bus to Rishikesh. Around 7 hours of bus drive brought one back to Rishikesh bus stand along with all the memories and experiences of the trip and stay with Shankar Swamiji. Once again back to the Luxman Jhoola for the night stay. Early morning 5 am, one got ready and crossed Luxman jhoola, thanking the Mother Ganges for making the whole trip fruitful. On reaching Rishikesh bus stand, one found a bus ready for one's home right there. Thankfully, one boarded it  and took another  almost 7 hours to reach the destination. On returning home all were excited to know the details of the trip which were shared with them...........Om!.  

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