Journey to Varnavat Mountain

One has been reading about the subtle realms, tucked in the mystic Himalaya, in North eastern reaches of India for many years. Right from the Arunanchal Pradesh in India up towards Tibet, an area of about 60 kms length is the place where sacred realms of Gyanganj and Sidh ashram are still located run by yogis of the ancient times. These are the pure creations of the yogis and Brahma has nothing to do with it. There is no Sun, no Moon, no Earth, its self effulgent and do not need anything of the world. Even famous Nagarjuna math is still existing there. Those yogis with 100's of years of ages and mesmerizing powers living in the world of their own creation, protecting our ancient vidyas and showering there great compassion on all the creation, animate or inanimate both.

Many have explained their journeys to those lands. One was always fascinated by there accounts and land of these sacred yogis, with ancient sages and rishis. Those places where the real knowledge of the yoga is preserved and taught. A subtle space in the gross world where there were teaching centres for 16 different kinds of vigyan which run our whole cosmos. Our Earth is run by one of those which is called Science of Sun (Surya Vigyan).

Paramhamsa Vishudhanand, also known as Gandhababa (mentioned in the Autobiography of a Yogi) was trained in that realm for 16 years before he came back to the world and started teaching in Varanasi and Bandul, his village. His disciple Gopinath Kaviraj ji wrote exhaustively on the teachings and methods of those realms as instructed by his Guru and also was in contact with sidhas of that realm from time to time. Through his writings one could see many glimpses of this realm. Another person who wrote about it was Pt.Arun Kumar Sharma. He also was a great yogi himself and his accounts are very knowledgeable and interesting. One always wished to meet him but unfortunately could not as he left this earthly realm. By divine design one came in contact with revered SN Khandelwal ji, who directed one to meet Shankar Swami, another elevated soul who has been to Gyan Ganj and had darshan of Mahatapa Baba there. One thanked the Mother for her blessings and lost no opportunity to contact Lama ji. One came to know of many fascinating stories of that realm from him and was invited to his ashram, on Varnavat mountain in Uttarkashi to learn things of those subtle realms. One felt that it is nothing but grace of the divine, reading all the writings of Gopinath ji, Khandelwal ji, Pt. Arun Kumar Sharma ji one got blessed to move further in this path of the sidhas.

   Uttarkashi is a very sacred place in the Himalayas and Ganges once again turns North wards and then regain her course flowing downwards. There are many special places in there, as described in the Skand Puran. One of such places is the Varnavat mountain. 

One got up early morning at 4 am, took bath and did one's daily pooja so as to be ready for the trip from Chandigarh. Reached the embarking point at 6.10 to board a comfortable 6.50 am bus for Dehradoon. The bus was not completely booked and one could get a current ticket to board. It took around 5 hours to reach Dehradoon bus stand from where one took another bus to Rishikesh, which is about 45 kms away. By the time one reached Rishikesh bus stand, it was 1.45 pm and weather was quite warm and one wished for a bath and quick dip in to the Ganges. So one hired an auto for going up to Laxman jhoola. It was a holiday and lot of pilgrims were there. Unfortunately on the way police stopped everyone and no body was allowed to cross the check post in vehicles. Thus one has no choice but to walk all the way to Laxman jhoola with back pack. One was feeling hungry, thirsty and perspiring so instead crossed the over the Ganges to the other side to have a quick lunch at famous Chotiwala. The whole place was fully jam packed. One had to wait for a seat to have a quick lunch. After that one started walking all the way to Laxman jhoola from this side passing various ashrams. Along the way people were having cane juice way side vendors and passed many sadhus sitting under trees and shops selling yoga clothing, mats etc. Some ayurvedic centers providing Shirodhara etc have sprung up. All seem to be doing good business. One remembered the Rishikesh of 30 years back, very quite, serene and very few people. One could get simple rooms at Rs.30-50 for one night which now cost Rs. 5-700/- per night. 

One booked a room at usual guest house, took a quick bath and went to rest. In the evening around 7 pm quick dinner and then back to the room. Early to bed, so as to be fresh in the morning for the next journey. Got up at 3.30 am, took bath and left the guest house at 4 am. Since early morning there are no conveyances available but only taxis, so hired a taxi to the bus stand which costs Rs.400 almost double the autorickshaw fare of Rs.200. Reached the bus stand around 4.25 to find that first bus has left and next bus would leave at 5.30. Bought the ticket and boarded the bus. At exactly 5.30 am driver came and started the bus. One just tried to relax in the seat. Morning time was quite comfortable, The bus started going in to the mountains snake like road. One had to keep one self balanced to keep in the seat. The roads were not in good condition as lot of rock cutting etc. was going on throughout to widen the roads. Passing through Narender Nagar, Chamba etc one reached Uttarkashi. One had tried to contact Shankar Swami ji many times but his cell phone always seamed to be switched off. Therefore for the last two days one had sent many messages to him about ones program of upcoming visit but got no reply.

The moment one got down at the Uttarkashi bus stand, one tried to call his number again but still switched off. Not sure what to do in such a situation, one again sent a message to him if by chance Swamiji opened his cell phone. Just as one was inquiring from the locals about going to Shikhar, top of the mountain, the cell phone buzzed and a message flashed, 'Where are you?' One got elated and immediately replied that one has reached Uttarkashi Bus stand. There are two ways to reach his ashram on the top of the Varnavat mountain. One is a longer path which can be taken by any one but one is a shorter path which leads through para military establishment for which one has to have transit pass. One has been requesting Swami ji for last many days to inform the security at the entrance to allow passage. 

Shankar Swami ji

All of a sudden the phone rang up and one could hear the familiar voice of the Swami ji on the other side who informed that one may go up as information about security passage has been requested. Feeling relieved, one took a taxi to go up 10-12 kms to the security check point where identification papers were taken and then one was allowed to move inside. Taxi dropped one at the top of the mountain where one again called up Swami ji. He informed to wait there only as he had sent some person to guide back to his ashram. The whole area was flat and green with jungle on three sides. Clouds started gathering and roaring. Weather forecast showed rain in the afternoon. One had no umbrella or  rain coat to tackle that situation but firm resolve. After 10-15 minutes one could see some movement in the tree line in front and saw a man emerging out with a bag in his hand. One felt happy to meet him. He had two rain coats in his bag given by Swami ji. The moment we started, at that very moment it started drizzling. Whole of the sky was covered with black clouds. Below one could see the city of Uttarkashi. From above one could clearly see the Ganges, coming down from the mountains, reversing her course to again to face north as if bowing to the Himalaya and the divines dwelling there. We took out the rain coats and wore them over the back pack to save clothes lying in from getting wet. Slowly we started moving up the mountain track. It started passing through the jungle and whole of the path was  red carpeted with Rhododendron flowers. They are very special flower and people make a very refreshing drink out of it. In local language it is called 'Booransh'. One had drank it many times in Badrinath, Mana village. All around one could see the trees of it. One kept on moving through it and slowly slowly the tree line started to thin out. Straight ahead steep path was seen going towards the top of the mountain. As one moved up more and more, beautiful scenery enfolded all around. Bandapuch glacier, Neelkanth mountain top etc. were seen far off.  Walking up one could see the wall of the ashram, then moving up one could see the building and a lone flag flying. The path is not much trying though as one reached the top.

One approached the Ashram through the gate and was met by a gentleman standing at the door of the room. He seemed to be living there. On introduction, one came to know that he is a scientist and has got  doctorate in Particle Physics from Calcutta and has done research in some sensitive technology field alone. His name was Subya Sachi. A nice person who has come there with his ailing old mother. One met her too. At that moment Swami ji appeared from inside and one reverently touched his feet. He blessed.

Top View of Swamiji's Ashram on Varnavat

He opened one room and asked to keep one's luggage inside. There were three beds with many quilts lying there. So one left the luggage and came out to see the enchanting scenery around. Then one went inside along with the Swamiji and the Subya Sachi to enjoy the great Booransh Drink. Swami ji had prepared liters of it for sending to someone in Calcutta. Drank two full glasses and sat with Swami ji. Talked about his latest book and his experiences of Gyan ganj. Requested him to teach some special things. He agreed and asked to rest till 5 pm. So all of us went to our rooms to rest till 5pm.

Sunrise over Bandar Poonch Glacier

Got up at 4.30 pm and came out of the room. Swamiji had not come out of his room yet. Around 5 pm Swamiji came out and asked to bring a few red flowers from the trees around. So along with Subya Sachi, went to a nearby tree and climbed while Subya waited below. Got a 7-8 flowers and gave it to him and them jumped down from the tree. Flowers were given to Swami ji who was waiting for us in the Shiva temple in the ashram. A water pot was filled to do abhishek of the Shivalingam. Was asked to take a special cloth to wrap around as he was going to perform a havan on our body with fire, I think its a form of Virja havan. One did not understand the full meaning of it, till the first Ahuti of it was thrown over. Chanting the Shivas mantra he threw a specially prepared powder with his right hand in my direction over a lighted deepak held in his left hand in front of him. The moment the ahuti material flew over the lighted deepak, it caught fire, a large flame shot towards ones lap covered by the cloth given. Since the cloth was covering up to shoulders, the fire jumped along the cloth on to the face and may be charred a few left side eyebrows. One was surprised by the sudden coming up of the fire. One immediately became alert, straightening ones back and neck, kept one's face a little backwards. When the next ahuti was delivered one's face was safely out of its range. But sometime it gave a searing heat on the arms or on the knees where ever it hit. One endured all the ahutis thrown at oneself with mantras. After that one was made to the abhishek of the Shiva.

After completion of the whole ritual, it was informed that Mahamritunjaya mantra has been established inside one's body now. This will guard oneself from all outside negativity. One really felt blessed to have such a ritual performed. One has never seen it though, a similar thing is done in case of people who renounce the world, which is called as Virja havan. In that case the whole procedure takes three days.

By 6.30, one was free from the whole procedure. One went back to the room and enjoyed the feeling of the special ritual. Since whole of the clothes inside were filled with the dust of the ahutis thrown at one self, one had to clean. After getting cleaned, one went to Swami ji in the kitchen. Subya Sachi was there preparing daal and vegetables for dinner. One took up the duty of making chapatis. Swami ji showed a small place to make chapatis where many forest wood pieces were lying. One kneaded the dough and lighted up the fire putting a tava over the fire. Shortly one was ready with chapatis for all the 4-5 people there. All of us sat together and started enjoying prasad. Swami ji also had a bottle of milk from the village. One took some hot milk in a bowl and put some jaggery in to it and drank it. It was very tasty especially in that setting of the mountain top. After dinner Swami ji asked to come to his room as he was going to teach some special kriyas for building energy in the subtle body. He did once and told to follow. After checking, finding it correct asked to repeat daily wherever one is. According to him this will strengthen the subtle body for higher spiritual practices later. After practice one returned to the room and sat in meditation till mid night. At midnight one had some strange interesting experience in the room. Then one went to bed.

At around 4 am one got up and went outside. Whole sky was starlit. One breathed in lot of fresh air and came back in the room to sit for morning dhyan. Till 6 am one sat and then went for bath. In half an hour one was ready. When swami ji came outside, he called and said he will teach another thing for improving the heart condition. According to him that kriya clears all the blockages and strengthens the heart. It was a combination of Jal neti and a suksham vyayaam which one already knew though the sequence of doing was different. One was asked to do it daily as this clears all blockages and one would never face any heart condition in life.

After that Swamiji planned to take one to the Cave of Mahatapa Baba, presently the controller of Gyan Ganj. According to him the local Village nearby is called Gyan ja which is similar to Gyan Ganj. Both Ganj and Ja means place where people live. There was another village nearby named Sankrali. Sankrali is said to be place where the famous Shangrila Valley used to be earlier. Now both are in Tibet. Swami ji showed the slokas mentioned in the Skand Puran regarding its location, which very well matched. So one felt more motivated to visit the cave of Mahatapa baba. We were asked to prepare lunch quickly so that on return we can have it. Rice, Daal etc were prepared and kept in the kitchen. Around 9 all of us left for the Cave. It was down below in the valley a few kilometers after passing the Gyanja village.

Gyanja Village

One slowly descended the the mountain path. On the way one was shown a sacred water hole from where they collected drinking water. Nearby was the old ashram of Swamiji's guru which was not in good shape except the room where Swamiji used to stay. The roof and walls of the other room had fallen. Whole building needed repair.

We continued our descent. In between, Swamiji would stop and inquire after the local people. All knew him well and respected him. He asked someone to send his son along with the key of the cave as we proceeded further downwards. At last we reached the gate of the cave which had a door installed on it and lock also put there. The local village person brought out the key and opened the door to this ancient cave for us. As one entered, one bowed down to great Mahatapa Baba who is the in-charge of Gyanganj these days and about to move to another galaxy of super humans where he would be the reigning deity.   One thanked one's fortune to be standing on such a hallowed land where great yogis must have done innumerable austerities. The path leading inside was up and down and snake like. Sometime one has to sit and sometime one has to crawl and some time one is able to stand even inside. But one needs to have a flash light all the time as there is no source of light there. It will be quite difficult for a fat person to enter it. One saw a naked statue of Lord Krishna on a ledge on the right side inside. One bowed down to the lord and did His abhishek with water taken in bottles for this purpose.

One kept on going forward and arrived at another Shivlingam installed inside on the right hand side again. So one ascended to the level of the shivling and sat there. Lighting a dhoop and deep, one performed abhishek of the Shiva along with others while Swami ji chanted the slokas for it. After that all sat for some time there and meditated, praying to Lord Shiva, Lord Krishna and all the yogis of this mystic path to bless and evolve further and further on this path. One took this opportunity to prostrate and request for their grace to descend in abundance. After that whole of the party came out of the cave, locked the door and start the ascent back towards Swamijis ashram on top of the Varnavat mountain. In an hours time, one reached the top of the mountain and requested Swami ji for his great invigorating Booransh drink. All drank 2-2 glasses of this elixir like drink in this seclusion. When the lunch was being readied, a Russian traveler along with his local guide arrived. They both were also invited and served lunch. After finishing lunch, washing dishes, all retired to their respective resting places to rest after days tiring trek. In the evening, around five all got up and sat with Swamiji asking questions and general spiritual discussions ensued. It carried out till late evening, after which one started making chapatis for all for dinner. After dinner of daal, roti and rice one taking leave of Swami ji went back to resting quarters. One started packing up the bags as Swamiji got some message to urgently go for some work to Hardwar with his Bengali guests in taxi next day early morning.

with Swami ji near his Guru's Ashram

One got up early in the morning at 4 am, meditated and went for daily bath etc. The water did not feel very cold up there as one is used to cold bath through out the year. There is provision of heating rod also for people used to warm bathing water. After that one looked around the mountain sides and stars lit up above for the last time. One sat for ones daily pooja and jap. Swami ji had asked for some guys to bring Khacchars for carrying the luggage down to the military area from where taxis were to come to take them to Hardwar and us to local bus stand for onward bus journey to Rishikesh. After half an hour delay because of late arrival of porters, their luggage was packed on to the Khacchars, while one carried ones luggage on one's back itself. Quickly one walked downhill and in about 15 minutes reached the rendezvous.  The taxi was waiting there for boarding. During crawling through the cave, one's hiking shoe sole got spoiled a little bit and needed repair. Since cobblers were available in the city of Uttarkashi alone so one had to walk slower than one's normal pace. All boarded their respective vehicles and set on journey down the Varnavat. On the way one saw the board of Sankrali village too which is said to be the originating word for Shangrila. On reaching down in the city one was shown the cobbler point by the taxi driver right in front of the local bus and taxi stand. Getting the shoe repaired one boarded the waiting bus to Rishikesh. Around 7 hours of bus drive brought one back to Rishikesh bus stand along with all the memories and experiences of the trip and stay with Shankar Swamiji. Once again back to the Luxman Jhoola for the night stay. Early morning 5 am, one got ready and crossed Luxman jhoola, thanking the Mother Ganges for making the whole trip fruitful. On reaching Rishikesh bus stand, one found a bus ready for one's home right there. Thankfully, one boarded it  and took another  almost 7 hours to reach the destination. On returning home all were excited to know the details of the trip which were shared with them...........Om!.  

                                                                      ~***********~

The Himalayan Mystic Cave ~*~

It is 01:30 in the morning and one has just reached back into the comfort of the home, travelling non-stop for almost 20 hours in different buses, from one of the most adventurous, difficult, tiring, dangerous and spiritually charging journey beyond Badrinath Ji, which is one of the most spiritual & powerfully charged places located in Uttranchal, north India. Here one would like to start typing, to share the experience with all like-minded souls.

Over the years, one has come to the conclusion that all the spiritual travels one undertakes are not of one’s own making but they are designed and approved by the divine, before one even sets a foot on it. To think that one alone has planned and executed the whole trip, is the greatest foolishness.

Though the area of Badrinath Ji, where a temple of Lord Vishnu is located, which was established by Adi Shankaracharya, is not new as one has been to that area dozens of times earlier. There are so many other places around Badrinathji that it will take years to visit such places which are scattered all around, some seen and some hidden. As one progresses and qualifies along the spiritual journey in life, more hidden places are revealed to the sadhak.

After visiting Kalpeshwar Mahadev in 2009-10 near Helang, one desired to visit a particular cave in which Baba Hanuman Giri Ji. who established Kalpeshwar Mahadev, stayed for the last nine years of his life in a cave beyond Badrinathji before taking the final Samadhi. One or the other reasons did not allow one to undertake this particular journey. But at last, due to continuous yearning, the whole program became possible in this month of September, 2016.  Leaving one’s home early morning on 9^th September at 6.45 am, one went to the local railway station to board a train to Hardwar, the door to Hari or door to Shiva (Har). Reaching around 2:30 pm in Hardwar,one booked a ticket for early morning on the 5 am bus for the onward journey to Sri Badrinath Ji.

Boarding the early morning bus next day one started the journey. One passed through Rishikesh, Byasi, Kaudiyala etc. to reach Devprayag. It is here that Alaknanda from Badrinath and Bhagirathi from Gangotri meet to form the sacred river Ganga. There is the famous Sri Raghunath temple here, which is said to be established by Adi Shankaracharya.  One can also go to Chandrabadani, a Shakti place around 35-40 km's away on a mountain top.

The next stop was Rudraprayag, from where one path leads to Kedarnath via Guptkashi while the other one leads to Badrinath. There is an ancient Tripurasundari temple also located here. It started raining from here. Going through Srinagar, Karnprayag, Chamoli etc. one reached Joshimath in the evening around 4:30 pm. The road to Badrinath was closed and nobody was allowed to proceed further as some accident took place, stones rolled onto the road and crushed a car killing the owner and his wife, though the driver and their daughter sitting at the back were miraculously saved. Peace to the departed souls. Some photos taken from the bus are being shared here below.

                 

Badrinath distance board at Joshimath

Taxi parking in Joshimath

Backside view from Guest house, Joshimath.

                                                                                            

All the passengers in the bus had to stay put for the night in Joshimath itself and were asked to assemble at the bus point next day at 6 am. Next day started from Joshimath around 6:45 am and on the way we saw mangled remains of the car accident, a grim reminder of the sheer force of nature. Without wasting any time, one went along with the Panditji to the temple, there we took a hot water bath, performed poojan of the Lord and local divinities along with pitr tarpan for the ancestors.

Here are a few photo shots taken from the bus on the way.


       

               

After that one had darshan of the Lord in the temple and sought blessings for the planned journey to Baba's cave and Satopanth.

                 

With Anil & Babaji (from Ayodhaya) at Tapt Kund

We met the above very nice Babaji in the bus itself. Had an opportunity to sit and talk over a cup of tea. One really liked his sincerity and straight forwardness. He planned to visit our side of the country and we invited him to stay with us whenever he comes to our city which he agreed to do taking our address details.

Anil with Bhotia women

Palaki of Badrinathji

Anil with Baba inside the tapt kund

On the next day was a special Matamurti festival. This is the only day in the whole year when Lord in his palanquin, along with Udhav ji, goes to meet Her. All the local people dress for the occasion, defense personal accompany the Lord, Raval ji rides on his horse behind the procession and musicians walk in front of the procession beating drums etc. We also were walking towards the temple when the procession came along. One was taking photos of the procession, and stepped forward to touch the palanquin. By the wish of the divine, the pandit supporting the lord at back moved over and gave a place to enter. One replaced the pandit and carried the palanquin on one’s shoulder with great joy. One considered it a great favor from the Lord, and carried it barefeet into temple premises. Then one took part in the free distribution of food to all the yatris and met Joginder Singh, a sikh gentleman from Patiala, who comes every year on this day to serve free food (prasadam) to the yatris at this Matamurti festival. All the defense personnel seem to know him.   

With Jogindr Singh who gives free food to all on Matamurti festival day.

One met a Naga baba here and had an interesting discussion with him. Before turning onto this path, he had worked in the Indian film industry in Bombay. He shared some of his spiritual experiences with us, which he has published in a book. After an hour of interesting talk with him, he was told of our plan to start our yatra. Just thinking for a second, he asked us not to go as he thought we are not prepared for it yet. But one told him one's firm resolve to go on it whatever may be the result. In the end, he blessed and embraced us,patted one’s back meaning that one can proceed on the yatra. After getting free from there around 3 pm one returned to the dharamshala to prepare for the next day's trip to the cave. We bought the provisions and with the help of guides packed up everything.

The next day around 6:30 am one started the yatra, walking on the Narayan Parvat as

                 

                       

       Around Badrinath   

Shelter before moving out of Badrinath ji on way to yatra ahead.

there was no Vasodhara glacier at this time of the season to cross over to this side if one started from Mana village side. Passing by Matamurti temple, bowing down and seeking Her blessing for a safe and fruitful journey ahead, one proceeded.

                                        

Matamurti Temple

Thus walking on the opposite side of the mana village one proceeded on the cherished journey.

  

Taste of the terrain that lay ahead

Bridge across Alaknanda leading from Matamurti temple side to Mana village

Paramilitary camping & training the recruits on the other side

As one negotiated various difficult pathways going up and down, there was sometimes only stones, sometimes only bushes and sometimes shepherds with flocks of sheep moving around. Many times one would be a witness to the powerful Alaknanda flowing over big rocks and crashing down with such ferocity that normal hearts would shudder hearing the roar. Praying to her for her support one just moved on.

After that one reached Luxmi Van (forest) where one can see many Bhojpatra trees on which our ancient Rishis use to write down their commentaries on various scriptures. There must have been a whole jungle of it in ancient times. Now they have been reduced to only a few, thus all the more reason to preserve them with great care and not spoil them by taking their bark off. These trees are just like great old Rishis standing there, who are witness to all the events and changes that have taken place. One again could only bow down to them, still standing guard and reminding our self-centered human race to mend its ways or else be ready for further wraths of nature.

Going through the Luxmi Van, one passed the cave, in front of which one had pitched one’s tent last time. One has great memories of that spiritually enhancing night stay many years back. One prayed to the cave, who must have given shelter to so many in the past and will do the same in the future too without asking for anything in the return. Humans should learn from her too if they want to survive well. Sharing is the key.

  

This is Vasodhara River as seen from the Luxmi Van side.
The importance of it has already been explained in an earlier article.

Saraswati River emerging at Mana Village

   

Alkapuri Mountains with Alaknanda Glacier

After this, the harder part of the yatra began. One had to move through big boulders scattered all around, rolling down the mountain for last millions of years thus also a witness to all the changes. One had to move step by step some times taking a sip of water to moisten the parched throat. A bubble gum or small toffee was kept in the mouth to help keep the throat moistened. As one moved more and more forward, the altitude increased more and more. The yatra started from Badrinath, which is at 10,000 feet height from sea level. As the height increases, oxygen reduces and one has difficulty in breathing. Thus people whose blood has a better oxygen carrying capacity, the body soaking in more of it in its cells, will have better endurance to face the travails of such ascents than other people. Thus a little preparation is always helpful before starting on such a yatra. The fitness of both body and mind is essential for any test in our lives, whether in THIS world or THAT world.

Moving through the rocky path, one loses so much energy that one is forced to rest after every few minutes. If one is not acclimatized then it is extremely difficult to move. Thus one should keep moving slowly and resting a little in between to progress on such yatras. Too much liquid drinking and too many halts are also not good for long treks. It is said generally that ‘you can reach any place only by walking and not by sitting’. So one should keep at it slowly and steadily.

Passing through this harsh track one descended into the Sahasradhara (1,000 falls). On one’s left side there are sheer dark rock faces, shooting up thousands of feet in the sky and snow capped peaks. They are enough to decimate one’s ego. In between, one could see packed glaciers from many rivulets of water issued in the form of falls down the mountain faces. Hence the name of the area as ‘1,000 falls’. All these falls come to the foot of this mountain range and form one river which flows down into the glaciers under which Alaknanda tributaries flow. The whole valley is full of small rivers, which were not that many this time. During ones visit many years back in the rainy season the whole area was flooded with water and even difficult to cross. At that time one had realized it to be a place of Varun Dev and did a Panchopchar poojan. So this time also one sat and did the Panchopachar poojan for the Varun Dev, the god of water, to support one’s journey ahead as without water nothing is possible in this world of ours. Trekking such paths one realizes the importance of one sip of water while people in the cities waste gallons on shining their cars. One prays to God not to be too harsh on such people in teaching them the importance of water and teach them to respect and preserve it for the future generation too for a healthy and clean environment.

Dark Towering mountains of Sahsrdhara

Reaching Sahasradhara area one felt quite tired and decided to put up the tent in the area to rest. The tent was put up by the side of flowing river at the feet of the mountain range. One could hear sounds of water crashing down in the form of so many waterfalls along the whole length of the mountains. A few trekkers coming down from Satopanth met us. One washed hands, feet, and face in the cold water of the flowing river. Since it was getting cold one retreated into the comfort of the tent and sleeping bags. A steaming cup of black tea was made of the clean fresh water of the waterfalls to provide some warmth and energy and the kitchen started. Later, rice and daal were cooked to satisfy the hunger a little. 

After this early dinner, one sat in daily poojan and thanksgiving. After that, one crept into the sleeping bag to catch up with some sleep and rest so that one is ready for the next day's hard trek through the glacier.

Tent at Sahasradhara with Srinand sitting and Pooran Singh standing,
our literal lifelines on the whole yatra.

Glacier to trek from a distance

Entering the glacier in from Sahasrdhara side

Getting up early morning, after having a cup of black tea and little breakfast the future trek was discussed. There were two possible paths for crossing. Either, we proceed to Chakratirth and then cross the glacier or we enter the glacier from Sahasradhara itself. Finally, it was decided to enter the glacier from Sahasrdhara itself. Thus everything was packed up and one thanked the Sahasradhara for the good night stay and after daily morning poojan one descended into the glacier track. At the start it looked not very far off, may be 1.5 to 2 km length. One thought it will be very easy to cross over but once one entered it then only one could realize the problems of such a track.

The whole track was a mix of sand and stones atop the glacier. The path was littered with thousands of stones in the form of innumerable mounds, which were totally unpredictable. While going up a mound, one thought one would get down the other side. But once one reached the top of the mound, then one realized that one was standing at the top of a glacier wall with waterhole on the other side. No way to go that side but to retreat back and change the direction and check another stone pile to go up. Thus all the way to the other side one has to rise up the mound, descend on the other side to ascend the next one. One realized that the more one plants feet on loose stones more one loses energy. The firmer the stone below your foot, the lesser the energy will be consumed in negotiating it. Thus the porters who were adept in walking through such terrain must be thinking in advance and pinpointing in their mind five six stones in advance to step on to save energy. Though it is a small lesson but great energy saver. Every ten-fifteen minutes, one would stop to have a little rest and a sip of water to charge the batteries. 

Some water holes in between these stone piles were small and some were big and radiant. One wished to jump into them but such things are extremely dangerous when you hear gurgling water below your feet while you are standing on the stones. Some stones were small some quite big, it made one think how such big stones were thrown there. While negotiating the terrain once one had to walk through a little stream coming out of the water hole and could not stop from washing hands, face and feet in it. All others were sitting at the top of the stones but one was sitting in level with the waterhole on the glacier itself, howsoever thick it may be at that place. One could hear water flowing underneath. Then one realized that it is a dangerous thing to do and hence, never did it again during the whole trek.  The energy sapping, undulating terrain which seemed only 1.5-2 km took almost six hours to negotiate.

On way to Sahasrdhara

Him kund or water hole in the glacier.

The porters exclaimed jubilantly that we were almost there but one preferred not to look up but count ones steps moving slowly on the path 1-2, 1-2, 1-2. You see, when one is trekking with such professionals, to keep one's spirits up they do say, ‘Oh! We are almost there’, which one hardly is. Their unit of distance, also differs from your own understanding. So it's better, not to believe till you actually arrive. So no need to get euphoric but always better to focus on what is at hand,  your walking steps  1-2, 1-2, 1-2.

At last, one climbed the other side up to come on to grassy plot with a thick cushion of grass which sheep must have loved to nibble on. One came directly at the base of a towering mountain, where up above around 300 feet was the face of the cave which we aware supposed to enter. One wished one had wings to fly into it rather than claw one's way up the 70-75% gradient rock face with grass patches here and there. Porters announced that we have reached the point of the Samadhi of Baba at the foot of the hill. So we took off our shoes in veneration, lighted a dhoop and offered our prostrations to the baba and requested him to take care of us as we ascend into his cave.

A view from the cave face outside perched up at 12,000 ft.

The local porters with all their baggage at the back easily started moving up but one could hardly find a path to set foot on. Holding a walking stick in hand seemed to be an extra burden which one wanted to throw away but was advised against it. So holding a pole in one hand and rock face bushes in the other, one started the slow, tiring ascent. With help from the porters from time to time, one could at last reach the mouth of the cave which was almost 50 feet wide 8-10 feet high at some places and 40-45 feet deep inside. The whole floor of the cave was inclined downwards and outward. The overhang was about a few feet and gave good protection to the cave from rain and snow. Inside the cave apart from a water source, it was completely dry. One did dandwat pranam (flat prostration) at the entrance to the cave and prostrating to the powers of the cave and all the mahatmas who did their sadhana there. There was an inch thick continuous water fall coming out of the rock face. It is said to be there throughout the year thus providing a lifeline for the sadhak in the cave.

Entering the cave, the left corner of it was converted into a room with stones piled up all around to form three walls and inner rock face being the fourth wall itself. The cave faced east direction, with glacier in front with the opposite mountain range on the other side running parallel to ours and open sky all around. The room also had a window like entrance through which one had to slide in. Inside was pitch dark and the whole space was around 8x8 feet. Inside, on the north was a small havan kund made and the rest of the length was divided into two steps. Maybe upper level for sitting and lower level for sleeping. The lower level was covered with dry grass to provide some cushion on which one spread the mattress which one found lying outside. Some rodents were running around, smaller ones with tails and larger ones without tails. According to the locals, if these eat grains, they develop tails. We moved inside and spread our sleeping bags, lighted 3 candles and inspected the whole place. It seemed to be a starred accommodation in such surroundings! Srinand and Pooran, our guides, porters and everything for the trip, spread their sleeping bags in another recess and started the welcome kitchen with local wood collected from around the cave. Hot steaming black tea was made and served. One checked from the watch, height of the cave was 12,000 feet. The evening programme of Yantra poojan, Gurumandal poojan and Havan was informed to our guides. It was decided that food will be served afterwards. One rested for over an hour and started arranging things for the evening poojan and havan.

Rough sketch of the inner view of the baba's cave

Looking for the mango wood which one has carried from Chandigarh itself to do havan, one realized it was left behind by mistake at Sahasrdhara by our guides and porters. Now came the problem of havan wood. Srinand, ran and brought special wood from the mountains, telling us that it is used for making dhoop and should be used in havan. One was thankful of finding something to support the havan fire. It clearly meant that outside material was not to be used in havan here, this must be the wish of the local powers. So around 4 pm one started arranging things for the evening poojan, tarpan and havan. We planned to have dinner after the havan. So daal was cooked first and rice were left to be cooked after. 

One had planned to do first general poojan, Guru Yantra poojan, Guru Mandal Tarpan poojan and havan. So at exactly 5 pm all the four persons assembled inside the room for poojan. Starting from the Shwet Varah Kalp down to the present day all the divine forces were requested to come and take their offerings one by one. One was in such a flow of the poojan that one only realized that instead of starting the yantra poojan first one had embarked on the Guru Mandal Tarpan poojan instead. Realizing it to be the desire of the subtle forces there, one carried on with more than 250 poojan-tarpans of the Guru Mandal tattvas covering Divyaudh, Siddhaugh, Manvaugh line of gurus and their Shaktis respectively. After completing it one started the poojan of Guru Yantra and one's own Guru Lineage. It gave great pleasure in doing it. The havan kund was quite small so it was not possible to sit all around it. Thus one person was asked to feed the wood, while other was asked to give Ahutis with Karpoor and Anil was asked to ahut ghee into the havan fire. One chanted the slokas of dhyan and ahuti for all. Thus more than 100 Ahutis were offered into the havan fire. Which soever shakti of the area could be remembered, was offered an ahuti. After that poorn ahuti with a coconut was done, then Aarti and Kshama Prarthana was completed. It took almost 2.5 hours to finish the whole procedure. But one felt elated to have completed what one had done sankalp to do in this special cave. One also mentally thanked all the subtle forces of the region in helping complete the desired task. After (do not know how many) years the  havan fire was lit in that kund, where Babaji must have given daily ahutis when he was alive and living in it. All felt very happy and satisfied and prepared rice. So one had daal-rice and a little mango pickle to enjoy a hard-earned dinner. After that, all retired to their respective places as one lay in the same room where baba used to stay. As one has experienced earlier also, it is not easy to sleep in such spiritually charged places, hence the whole night was spent with closed eyes and mantra going continuously in the mind. Seeing the difficulty of coming to such places and staying there in harsh conditions, one thought that even living there itself is sadhana. If one can perform some anushthans also, than it is a great grace of the Shaktis there.

            (Last photos of the havan fire, after which the camera battery finished)

Next day, one decided to stay put in the cave for another night and soak in the vibrations of the place.  One could hear the rumble of the crashing glaciers around sitting in the safety of the cave. It was planned that Satopanth yatra will be started the next day. Srinand went for an advance lookout for finalising the trekking path of tomorrow. He came back after 4-5 hours. He brought 4 Neel kamals (blue lotuses) picked dry from about 15,000 ft height, one for each one of us. It was a bonus for all. The whole day was spent remembering one's Ishta Mantra. Planning was done for the next day's course. Since it was a sheer slide down to the bottom, from the cave mouth, which seemed a little risky, it was decided that we will continue to move at the level of the cave along the mountain range till we reach a place where the distance to the foot of the mountain range was minimum. Anyway, with the help of the guides, one kept on moving on the goat path till about a kilometre ahead, an easier spot was found to descend to the bottom. But it was like out of the frying pan into the fire. The harsh trek of the glacier awaited again in front. Once again one became busy with 1-2 count of the trekking feet. At least, this time, one was quite refreshed during this stretch. One kept on following the guides, moving-resting and sipping water. To bypass Chakratirth, one was walking at an angle through the glacier to reach below the hill of Satopanth. If one drew lines from the Sahasradhara and Satopanth to the cave they must have made around 140-50 degree arc with Chakratirth lying in the centre nearly opposite to the cave on the other side of the glacier. The Him-kunds (glacier water holes) in the glaciers seemed quite inviting but one was told not to enter into them. It was also conveyed that Apsaras bathed in these. At one place one had an opportunity to wash hands and face in the water coming from the glacier hole. One quickly did that and moved on to the higher level on the stones to be safe. Thus one kept on walking resting walking again for hours. Going around a mountain one came out of the glacier path on to the less dangerous stone path, though they were also covering glacier and water below them. From here one could see the flag flying on the Satopanth Mountain. It gave some strength to look at it. With the little bag at the back, one kept on walking, concentrating on the stones and one's steps. When one reached the bottom of the Satopanth mountain one felt  quite drained. Rising up the last gradient of around 60-70 degrees  step by step, one chanted Jai Satopanth! Jai Badri Vishal. All of sudden there was such a forceful wind experienced that one was pushed up the last ten steps in a fraction of a second. One took it as great favour and blessing of the Lord and realised that He is overlooking one's journey continuously.

Seen on reaching the top, down on the other side was the lake of Satopanth. But one was perturbed to see so much less water in it as compared to the last visit. Around 10 local people were staying there doing a survey of the water bodies in the mountain ranges. We descended with great joy and found a place to put up the tent. After putting up the tent and baggage inside it one went down to take a bath in the lake.

 Sitting on the bank of the  lake, one did poojan of all the divinities, offered tarpan to all the ancestors, remembering all family members, all sadhaks and all friends, one took a bath in the freezing waters of the lake. All this process became quite  emotional and one had nothing but one's tears alone to offer to the lord for his continuous blessings though one may not be up to the mark to deserve them. Thinking that Lord must have bathed in it during Shukla Paksha Ekadashi passed a few days back, one felt overjoyed.  On completing the bath, the Sun was covered by clouds and one changed clothes and went back into the cover of one's tent.   

Half a cup of tea was accepted from the hands of Mauni baba as prasad. The tea was really delicious as he had put many herbs into it. Lying in the tent one still could feel stones moving under one's feet. Around 6 pm, dinner was prepared, same daal and roti. The Survey of India team people were moving around singing songs. One of them was singing 'Ai Neele Gagan ke Tale, Dharti ka Pyar Pale'. By 9 pm all fell silent and one could hear the mantra moving with the breath inside. At around midnight, there was a crash of glacier somewhere nearby, the same thing happened at 1:30 am, 4:00 am and around 5:30 am. Each sound and vibration reminding one of the ferocity of nature in the area. Getting up early and packing up inside the tent, one thought of starting back so as to reach Badrinath ji the same day. The guides were busy making tea and breakfast. One had a cup of black tea and a rusk. Being not in the mood to eat that early so one told them that one would start return journey while they can pack up all the material and the tent, to start our return journey. Descending down the mountain once again one set foot on this million stone wilderness. In between on the way, one lost track of the path. There was no way to go further lest one went in the wrong direction. So both the travellers sat on the stones waiting for the guides to appear at the top of the Satopanth mountain. But waiting for 45 minutes bore no result. 

It was decided to move forward instead. Looking at the mountain front, one saw an angular ascent path on its right-hand corner. Thinking it to be the best place to ascend one approached it. The face was 150-200 ft high and at 75-80 degree gradient. Once started to climb with all fours slowly. One of the travellers ascended the face with difficulty. Following in his footmarks one tried to ascend also but after some time it was realised that in absence of proper footholds, it will not be possible to go up further. So the one who had negotiated earlier descended onto the mountain face again and gave support to rise up but to no avail. Thus both were struck on the rock face and not sure of what to do next!  All of a sudden, the guides were seen on the other end i.e left side of the mountain and then one realised the wrong committed. One had to detour that mountain to climb the next mountain instead. One whistled a few times and they were able to locate two of the travellers on the rock face. One of them came running and seemed very angry. Anyway, he easily climbed up and brought both of us down one by one. One felt to be stupid hanging there while the guide made the whole descent look like a cake walk. That is what we call experience and skill.

Thus it was decided, in future we will not leave them but stick close together. So we detoured the mountain and saw another one in front after the stone wilderness and two flags, fluttering at the top of it, which indicated Chakra teerth, where Arjun has left his body in his ascent towards Swargarohan. The whole surface of it is like honey-comb, each one representing a chakra. This is the speciality of Chakra teerth surface.

Descending the great ascent from the flag post down into the Chakra teerth, one was reminded of the last trip, when it was snowing and one had just sat on the snow and slid down in a matter of few minutes. this time, it took much longer. Walking through it, one saw a few tents put up there and porters preparing food for the party. One slowly walked through the Chakra teerth and once again ascended into the stone path. Going up and down through it one entered the area of Sahasrdhara. One stopped near a resting place below a big stone and prepared black tea. A sadhu was also sitting on that stone since the previous night and going to Sahasradhara. He seemed to be new to this trek and did not know how far the final destination was. He had nothing to eat but was simply smoking his chilam. Tea and biscuits were given to him. After a little rest one again started on the return journey. 

By this time one felt better as one had descended from 15,000 to around 11,000 ft height. Oxygen being more, walking became easier. Thus, one kept on walking, stopping in between only for 2-3 minutes and a sip of water of Sahasrdhara which one had collected in a bottle. One has requested Varun Dev to enter into it and provide all the energy to go up easily. Moving through stones, vegetation and Luxmi Van, at last around 5:00 pm one reached the Matamurti Mandir with great relief. Dreaming of a welcoming Booransh drink, but it was not be found on this side of Alaknanda. It was available only on the other side in Mana village for which one had to descend and cross over the river to ascend again into Mana. Nobody found this proposition enough motivating. So instead one continued the walk towards Badrinathji's temple. On the way, there was a small shop where soft drink bottles were displayed. Though one never drinks such things but at that time one was so thirsty that one had one with a little salt in it. The moment it went inside, one felt charged and then continued the return journey. On reaching the Badrinathji Temple, one went for darshana and offered bhog to the Lord for His protection and blessing on the whole yatra and requested Him to keep calling one again and again to His lotus feet. After that, one went for early dinner in Saket and straight to the Dharamshala for resting the tired frames. Pandit Kashinath ji came to meet us when he heard that the travellers are back. The next morning taking 5:00 am bus from Badrinath one bowed for the final time and started the return journey to one's hometown, Chandigarh. Om! Jai Badri Vishal! Jai Satopanth!   

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